WX572L 5.5 Amp BladeRunner Portable Electric Table Top Saw

About this item

[GREAT AT CROSS & RIP CUTS] The steel rip fence and riving knife system lets you perform an assortment of straighter, longer, wider cuts
[TRULY PORTABLE TABLE SAW] Weighing in at less than 15 lbs., you easily can move it around your workshop or even take it to the job site
[ADJUSTABLE MITER GAUGE] Makes 0-60 miter cuts from both the right and left sides, so you can make every common miter cut, and every angle in-between
[SAFETY SWITCH] An added safety switch and safety key give this saw an added level of security, so you don’t have to worry about accidental starts
[DO IT YOURSELF. DO IT BETTER. DO IT WITH WORX.] WORX tools are engineered with cutting-edge technology, and above modern efficiency standards, so you can build a cost-effective tool collection that’s been designed to last. On-board storage for miter gauge, rip fence and blades
[ACCESSORIES INCLUDED] 5 blades (woods, aluminum, scrolling, ceramic tile, steel) rip fence, miter gauge, dust extraction port, and blade grip. Sets up in seconds to cut wood, metal, tile, aluminum or plastic.

• Bandersnoot

  This is a review of the BladeRunner X2, purchased from Amazon. I have the one from WORX, but it is the same machine as the one from Rockwell. My review is positive but realistic, not “unbox & first impressions”. I have used my BladeRunner to make several items and it's definitely a keeper in my opinion. I am not affiliated with WORX or Rockwell in any way.When I first received the BladeRunner X2, I tried a few things and had immediate buyer’s remorse. This was because, before my divorce, I had a nice workshop and I'd made a few pieces of furniture. I know firsthand that nice woodworking tools can make getting good results fairly easy. If you have unrealistic expectations of the BladeRunner, you will be disappointed. You CAN get good results with it, but you will need to work slowly and carefully within the tool’s limitations. You will not be building a cherry armoire or a walnut grandfather clock case with the BladeRunner, but if you love to make hobby and craft projects and little ideas you think up, the BladeRunner will prove very satisfactory.This BladeRunner review is in three parts: 1) clever and useful features, 2) limitations and how to work around them and 3) final thoughts.1) Clever and useful BladeRunner features: o The BladeRunner is lightweight and easily portable, has a handle, and the plastic is durable if you handle it reasonably. I bought a DeWalt portable folding workbench for my BladeRunner and it’s a perfect combination. o Front compartment holds spare blades, easy to access. o T-shank blades are available everywhere, lots of choices, though the blades must be 4 inches or less maximum overall length. o Blade changes are ridiculously easy and quick, no tools needed. o A wire bracket folds out to hold the BladeRunner from creeping backwards when cutting. o There are storage slots for the rip fence which work very well. There is also a clip for the miter gauge though it’s a little loose. o The cutting guard works well to hold the work down (more on that below). o Motor is strong enough for the kind of work intended for this tool. o Polarized plug, use anywhere there's an outlet. o Will cut inside curves and squares and can start from an inside hole. o The vertical motion of the blade means that cutting with the rip fence as a sizing guide is very safe and recommended. It will not bind as a circular blade would. This also means that to a certain degree you can make a square cut even if the work is not perfectly square to the blade, as long as you cut to a line marked on the piece. o Both hands are free to control the cut. Using both hands for all cuts is highly recommended. o Vibration is minimal. Noise is a little louder than a vacuum cleaner, but the feet keep it in place. o On-Off switch is easy to reach and has a safety key. o No tools are required for any adjustments.2) Limitations and how to get good results. o Overall, to get good results you will need to work slowly and thoughtfully, marking lines for every cut, using a square as much as possible, holding the work down and guiding the piece with both hands. o Check and double check the setup of the rip fence, and don’t rely on the markings molded into the plastic top and miter gauge. o Being plastic, don’t rely on the miter gauge to cut square. Instead mark a line for the cut and use the miter gauge as a helper. Watch the blade and the line and guide it with both hands, and you can do well. o The rip fence pivots at both thumb knobs. In other words, it’s not square unless you make it so. Use a square when setting up a cut. o The splitter that holds the guard at the back will bind on long rips unless you accommodate it by giving it space on the right side with the rip fence. HOWEVER, because it’s not a circular saw, it will not affect the cut. Assuming you’ve moved the rip fence slightly to the right at the back to allow a bit of room, you can get a good straight cut as long as you use both hands and keep the piece against the fence. o YOU MUST KEEP THE PIECE THAT YOU’RE CUTTING HELD DOWN, either by adjusting the guard or pressing down on the work (if cutting freehand). o I did not have a good experience cutting a piece of scrap oak, and cutting thick pieces will require going very slowly. This is because, unlike a bandsaw, the top of the blade vibrates, and if you push too hard the blade will curve vertically. Cutting for thickness (as you would with a bandsaw) is not going to work. o Overall, I think you will need to stick with softer woods like pine and poplar that are planed to the thickness you need. Lauan 5.2mm plywood works beautifully, and I think ¼” plywood would be fine. Anything over ½” or ¾” will require slow cutting. The harder and thicker the piece, the more likely you will get into trouble if you don’t slow down and take your time.3) Final thoughts: I would recommend the BladeRunner X2 to anyone who wants to do small projects and hobby/crafty-type things. In the past I built furniture, but now I’m content to work on my ideas without the benefit of a lot of expensive tools. Life is compromises. The BladeRunner X2 is a cleverly designed, lightweight and inexpensive tool that will do a lot of things that a more expensive tool cannot (like inside corners, scroll cuts, etc.) You are not going to do fine joinery with it, but maybe (like me) you don’t need to or want to. Go for it.

• DJK

  Received my second saw after3 years with the first one. Solid construction and works well with cutting wood up to 3/4 inch but better suited to 1/2" woods but has a real vibration problem. Not handy for cuts longer than 12" . Light weight and easy to store when not in use. My only complaint is that the etched measurement guides are are the same black color as the table top. It makes it almost impossible to set the width bar to cut. I have had to rub chalk into the track to be able to set the guide. Original unit had the measurement guides in white for contrast and east to read. For small cuts with thinner woods it works well enough. For hobby projects only.

• Mike

  The bad: If you think you can use this at the job site, build a 2x4 frame wall with this saw or cut long sheets of plywood, you COULD do so, but I can say with a high degree of confidence you will not be happy doing it. The cheapest circular saw will serve you far better. This thing will shake, rattle, struggle, drift, etc. I actually returned it because of that, but then I realized I was asking too much from the tool. So, I bought it again. Sorry Amazon.OK. Now the good. This is a very very nice tool for CRAFTS and SHORT cuts on thin or soft wood that is not too large. (It vibrates badly on 3/4" hard woods) It works great when making cross cuts on soft wood 1 in or thinner. Rip cuts? You may want to notch it and then do the rip cut as it vibrates pretty badly on thicker pieces. on 1/2 and less soft woods, simple to use. I use it to make beer caddies, wine caddies, shoe racks, etc as gifts for friends and family. For that purpose, it is very nice. The dust port sucks up most of the dust so i can use in in my storage room without too big a mess. A fair amount of sawdust will fall through the bottom of the unit, but it seems to stay put until I vacuum it up.

• Postal Dude

  Handy portable table saw. Basically, this is a jig saw turned upside down and installed in a saw table. I have only used it for small projects, but love how easy it is to make clean straight cuts. I set it up on a couple of saw horses with 1/4 sheet of 1/2" plywood as a base. Works great! If you hook up your shop vac, it cuts down on the sawdust, but some sawdust gets under the table, so don't put away the shop vac until after you move the table saw.

• Joe's Reviews

  Make sure you bolt it to a table or whatever it rests on. It runs great and cuts any angles you need out of ANY type of material! It's not for ripping plywood or anything over 3.75 inches. Scrolling is amazing and straight cuts are great HIGHLY RECOMMEND FOR SMALL JOBS!!!!!!!

• Daniel L.

  I bought this for my wife since she does small wood projects.I just finally had time to show her on how to use this. We set up the saw and I went over the different blades and how to setup for cutting.I showed her how to setup the fence and the miter.I decided to cut the first piece of wood for her. Now I have worked as a cabinet builder/installer for 8 years and I know the difference between professional tools and not. This saw seemed like it would be good for the wife since it was smaller, light weight and easy to use.Well, after the first cut, I was like what? The cut was not straight. I decided to make a second cut. This cut was just as bad as the first cut.The blade does bend and the miter has a wiggle to it.I watched the Worx video for this saw, I think in the video they had to be cutting Balsa wood of different sizes to make it look like your cutting pine 2x4’s that quick. I tried to cut pine 1x4 and had to move slower than in the video.This I think is a HUGE waste of money. I am just going to purchase professional type tools and teach my wife on how to use them.I would like Worx to send me a box with return postage for this thing and reimburse me on what I spent.

• Teresa B.

  Works ok. A bit flimsy. Thought it would be a little more sturdy. WORST.....thought it would cut wood wider than 6 in. In other words, if board is 11in by 6 ft...FORGET IT!!! So upset sat in a box for three weeks. Tried it out and when I Got around to return, BAM! past 30 days! AGAIN, NOT WORTH THE MONEY AT ALL unless for little and I mean LITTLE jobs 😩

• Piraha Mura

  I have a jigsaw and others that can't cut straight. That prevented me to do woodwork projects and repair. I never committed to getting a workbench, a saw table with another saw in it. First, it's the space. Then it's the mess. An oscillator tool for sawing only moves a few degrees. Jigsaw moves up and down a few inches. A circular saw only moves in one direction and dust flies everywhere.I saw video reviews about another brand that almost look identical. So this one works the same. It's 110V corded, not 20V as some listings suggested. It's a one-speed standard jigsaw that cuts up to 2 by 4. The difference is in the table.It's very portable and I see some pros bring them to the job site on video. The plastic is solid. For rip cuts, the guide is fixed by two screws so you can set it up as accurately as you want. For the angle cut, the guide is adjustable with one screw so there is a slight play. This is the guide to push a longish strip of wood toward the saw for a simple cross-section cut.There is a sort of stabilizer arm to put on top of the material being cut. You need it because a jigsaw goes up and down. For a standard saw the housing blocks any unexpected incidents but for the Bladerunner, the housing is on the bottom.If you are happy with jigsaw now you can cut straight. If you want curved or arbitrary cuts you can use both hands to manipulate the material on the saw table. I can do some accurate woodwork using 1/2" square dowels, and tackle floating laminate or wood floors.

• Tropicalspeed

  Just unboxed this table saw.The saw is quite stout for something made mostly of impact resistant plastic.The fence is not setup so that it is always parallel to the blade - that has to be adjusted each time by the operator.I'm a southpaw so it would be nice if this whole setup, i.e., the fence and the guide, could be reversed.I bought this saw mainly for metal cutting so most of my work will be cutting steel and non-ferrous materials less than 1/4" thick and aluminum 5/8" thick and under. I tested the unit by cutting a 1/4" piece of brass rod using the guide to feed the rod. The cut was clean but not quite perpendicular. So then it would appear that all my cuts will need to have the faces slightly ground to make them perpendicular, an extra step not anticipated and will have to be factored in each time I make a cut.The machine appears to have plenty of power but that also comes with a noisy machine as well. - the table saw is louder than the industrial vacuum that I hook up to all my machines when cutting or grinding.I gave this saw four stars because there is always room for improvement:➣ A better guide and fence➣ Capability to turn the table into a left-handed operation➣ Some insulation to lessen the noise➣ A third wire ground for the motor and bladeI will likely come back in a few weeks with an update.

• DC

  Saw works great on thinner pieces. Guide arm not so great. Does not like thicker pieces of wood.When the guide arm is up towards the top, The blade wants to run away in the wood on thicker pieces.End up with uneven cuts top to bottom.