Thin Rip Jig Table Saw Jig for Making Repetitive Narrow Strip Cuts on Table Saws with 3/4" x 3/8" Miter Slots • Also Works with Many Router Tables and Band Saws

About this item

Making repetitive cuts on your table saw is a pretty straight forward process. Set your fence and feed each stock piece through the blade to achieve the same size each and every time. What if you need a series of narrow cuts that are about an 2 inches or less in width? Doing this can get tricky since you cant get your hands safely between the blade and the fence. You could always reverse measure and keep the off fall piece, but without a guide of some sort that can be inaccurate.
The Thin Rip Jig acts kind of like a third hand behind the blade or cutter. With the saw unplugged simply measure from the outside of of the blade toward the tip of the (guide roller) Thin Rip Jig for the width cut you want to make. Once set, secure the Thin Rip Jig simply by rotating the large, easy to grip star shaped knob. After your first cut, reset your stock behind the blade and slide the fence over so your stock piece is touching the guide roller on the Thin Rip Jig. Lock the fence.
Making your thin rip cuts in this fashion allows you to cut wider boards down without getting your fingers in harms way by keep them away from the blade or cutter.The Thin Rip works much like a feather except that it doesn’t exert spring like pressure against the board. This means it can be used to make accurate, repetitive cuts since it’s essentially just holding its spot once it is secured.
The Thin Rip Jig has a roller guide bearing on the tip to make feeding your stock through an easy and smooth moving process. The free rotating bearing is made from high quality materials for extended workshop use. The jig fits directly into most any standard 3/8” x 3/4” miter slot. The body is made from a solid piece of aluminum and is adjustable inward and outward from your fence depending on the width of your stock.
The jig can be used on other workshop machinery like router tables with fences and band saws for re-saw applications. In certain cases, when working with larger or longer stock on table saws or router tables, we recommend using two thin rip jigs behind the blade or cutter for extra stability when feeding your stock through.

• Tim L.

  What a great product at a very fair price. Well made and easy to use. I’ve used it several times and I’m getting very consistent results.

• Matt Troyer

  After watching countless YouTube videos on building your own thin rip jig and never getting around to making one, I broke down and bought this one. I am glad I didn't waste my time.This tool is very well built with premium fit and finish, dead simple to use, and much nicer than anything you can make. Rather than a simple stop, it has a bearing as the stop which not only sets the correct depth of the table saw fence, but also helps secure the workpiece tightly against the fence for extra security when cutting thin strips. The other thing I like about it is how easily you set the depth by measuring against the blade, tighten the knob just a little to lock the slider in place, then slide the whole unit toward you in the mitre slot and then tighten it a little more to lock it down before making your cuts.Part of the fun of the woodworking hobby is making cool jigs to solve specific problems, so I get that. But another fun part of the hobby is having premium quality tools that are a pleasure to use and just work with no fiddling around.

• T. Beaulieu

  This is an interesting tool. While it looks like a feather board, it goes on the waste side of the blade and acts as a stop. Joint the edge to be cut from and then set this up on the other side of the blade and register the board against it. The idea is that after you make the cut, if you advance the fence towards the blade until the board is again registered against this jig you'll have a repeatable cut.I'm not sure what the ruler markings are for. They can be used for relative adjustments, but because they're in 1/8" increments that wouldn't allow for very precise adjustments. The true measure of any adjustments is the width of the next cut off.When you crank down on the knob this thing get locked into the miter track extremely well. They have a sturdy aluminum slider that's split and when the knob is tighte it spreads. This is a great idea!Believe it or not I used to try to make such thin cuts against the fence. The problem, of course, was that it was a PITA to shift the fence over every time. I had to find a good starting point with the first jointing cut so that I'd have an easy reference. But then it was still irritating because I'd quickly be between easy reference points on the next cut. This is so much quicker, easier and obviously safer than cutting strips between the blade and the fence.If I had this tool a year ago I wouldn't have had to replace a french door pane from a strip that shot back, through the door window and into the driveway.UPDATE:I'm in a kitchen cabinet build and this worked really well for ripping beading off for mitered inset face frames. I beaded both edges of the boards, ripped the beaded profile and repeated until the boards were used up.Solid tool.

• TomP

  First, this this is very solidly built and will easily handle the rigors of the average woodshop. It is designed well and couldn't be easier to use. I am a stickler about using push blocks (to include the expensive, adjustable brand), but still have concerns about putting my hands closer to the exposed blade than I am comfortable with. This device makes it so much safer and stabilizes the piece through the cut. It works perfectly for my table saw and also on my router table, but unfortunately does not fit in the tracks for my bandsaw. If I could suggest one improvement, it would be the ability to adjust the the width of the skids to fit different tracks (i.e. spring loaded bearings?). As it is, the tracks can be easily removed and temporarily or permanently replaced with aluminum or hardwood tracks of various sizes, then swapped out as necessary.

• SuperBoppy

  Easy to adjust, locks into the miter slot very well. A well-made product.

• P C in Oregon

  It did exactly what it's supposed to do. Painlessly and effortlessly it cut strips.

• Rob Ingram

  The media could not be loaded. Seems like an amazing device. I think there there might be an adapter out there to allow it to fit that kind of saw but as of this time, I’m not able to use this product.

• Vietvet68

  I purchased the Thin Rip Jig to make corner splines for a picture frame I'm making. After trial and error I made a perfect spline exactly the thickness of my saw blade. Made cuts in the frame using a home made jig, glued the splines in and it made all the difference in the strength of the frame. As for the jig it works well and as intended. I was also impressed by the quality and heft of the jig. It was an excellent purchase for my home woodworking shop.

• Larry Anderson

  I really like this thin rip jig, because it has really allowed me to ramp up my production of laminations for the set of 100 18" lazy susans I was asked to build to custom dimensions. I've had the device only a week, but I've used it a TON -- and I love it!The only "down" thing about this device is that, to make it hold securely in the slot, the knob on top has to be tightened extremely tight, otherwise it will slip in the slot. I'll keep trying to figure out how I can modify it so the tightening/loosening does not require such extreme twisting!

• Brent

  I have one of those little compact table saws and the track is not exactly 3/4 inch so it takes a little shimming with painters tape to get a snug fit. In my router table and on better saws it fits perfectly.